SWEET HISTORY OF THE EASTERN TIP OF JAVA
Now Indonesia is one of the largest importers of sugar in the world. It used to be the other way around. During the economic depression in the 1930s, Indonesia was the second-largest exporter of sugar, after Cuba, produced by 179 sugar factories.
Sugar crop has been founded in Java around
Batavia since the 12th Century but the sugar industry potential of
East Java (Oosthoek in Dutch,
including Pasuruan and Probolinggo) was firstly noticed by Deandels at the
early 19th Century. This idea
was continued and realized by the British colonial government led by Charles
Etty Esq., a captain of the British sugar industry who has also initiated the sugar
industry in Calcutta, India.
The story of the Eastern tip was one of the
episodes of the successful sugar industry. Other areas around Java, especially
Central Java, has significant
history episodes as well.
Nevertheless, it is worth remembering to remind
the younger generation of Indonesia that it used to be possible to fulfill
domestic sugar needs without exporting from other countries.
The last statistic shows that now Indonesia
runs 62 sugar factories, 50
factories are state-owned (33 factories are more than 100 years) and 12 are
private companies.
I visited Pasuruan and Probolinggo in spring 2019 to learn about the sugar history of Indonesia and to investigate a
possibility to create a sugar heritage trail with the locals. These two cities
with several other cities in the Eastern tip of Java until the Bali Strait used
to be a sugar industry center. Pasuruan had a special position as a sugar town or
the holy city of sugar.
Pasuruan was a location for a research
institute of sugar (Proefstation Oost
Java) that became the pioneer of the International Society of Sugarcane
Technologists (ISSCT). Now it becomes the Indonesian Sugar Research Institute.
Other thing that brought me to Pasuruan is the
roman of Louis Couperus, de Stille Kracht (Kekuatan Misterius in
Bahasa or the Hidden Force in English). This story of life and work of a Dutch
resident was at the beginning written in Pasuruan in 1899. You can see the
picture of the house in Pasuruan through this link.
Later, this roman was translated into many languages, was and is still produced
in many forms for theater, television, and film.
My adventure and discovery travel to Pasuruan
and Probolinggo was accompanied and only possible with the company of my
younger colleague, Priyo A. Sancoyo, an architect and community development
specialist. He and his parents have generously hosted my visit and we had a
great time sharing stories from two parts of the world.
The most impressive discovery in Pasuruan was Hotel Syariah
Daroessalam, a renovated colonial building. Most of the footprints
of the sugar industry are decaying but this hotel shines, alone.
Back to the core business: I have researched,
exhibited, drafted, and contacted all necessary parties to raise awareness
about the sugar history at the Eastern tip of Java. The dream is to create a
sugar heritage trail from Pasuruan, Probolinggo (Banger), Situbondo
(Panarukan), Besuki (Bondowoso, Jember), Lumajang until Banyuwangi
(Blambangan). I have approached the locals about this. They should be the
engine behind the trail. It might take time to enjoy the sweetness of sugar
history but it will come.
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